Erecting a Garden Shed
How to go about erecting a garden shed
I've bought a DIY Shed.
How do I install?
So you’ve bought a DIY shed you have the panels delivered and ready to go.
You should also have a poly tube which has trims, screws and nails in, the glass is there and floor bearers or timber to make a wooden frame.
Here is a short guide with hints and tips of how to build your new shed. (Don’t forget that we offer an installation service if required)
The example below is from an installation where the old shed had been removed and the base underneath was revealed to be paving slabs that aren’t quite level.
1. Paved Base Not Level
Here you can see a paved base with slabs surrounding. This base isn’t level so won’t be suitable as is for the shed to be installed onto. It will need a timber frame base (See Cousins Easy Base).
2. Timber Base Made to Floor Size
We use 75mm x 50mm pressure treated timber to make our timber framed base with 80mm screws into all joins, we always use two screws in each joint to give extra support. We fit cross braces suitable for the building, on this example a 10×6 floor comes in one piece, anything larger could come in two sections so would need extra support in the middle.
3. Timber Base Levelled In
After finding the high point of the base we level all four corners and then fill in with legs where required. On this 10×6 shed it has twenty four legs. You can see the amount that this base is out of level on this image.
4. Timber Base Finished
You can see on the finished timber base that the legs are fitted both sides of supports this stops any movement over time. The fact that this base is pressure treated means it is maintenance free and will not rot.
5. Floor on Base Ready for Panels
We sit the floor onto to the timber frame; it is then screwed down with 80mm screws to stop any movement.
We then bring the panels round ready to install, the panels in order are;
Floor – Make sure the floor joists face down and floor boards face up (it seems obvious but you’d be surprised!)
Rear Panel – 6’
Blank Panel – 10’
Window Panel – 10’
Door Panel – 6’
Roof Truss – fit this by fitting in the middle and screwing at both ends.
Roof Panel 1 & 2 – Make sure that you get these panels the correct way round so that there is an overhang at the eaves.
6. Roof On & Felting
When the roof is on we screw the roof down through the cladding into the side frames, it is important to make sure that is screwed all of the way around. Once the roof is fitted down the side panels can be secured to your floor, we would use 65mm screws for this.
7. Felting Rear
To felt the roof we would open the roll of felt and roll out the longest part of felt, that would then be folded in half and cut, this will leave some overhang at the front that can be trimmed off later. We’d recommend using felting tacks approximately the width of your hand apart across the eaves of the building and then the same on the ridge piece of felt.
8. Checking Over
Once the felting is completed you would then fit the finishing fascia boards, make sure that the felt is cut back and folded over and then use 2½” nails to fit these on. Be careful screwing these as they can split so nails is the better option. Once the fascias are on you can use panel pins to fit the diamonds.
9. Finished Shed
The final part to leave you with a finished shed is the glazing. To glaze the shed you would need to remove the pre-cut beading careful as it will have to be re-fitted, then silicone around all 4 sides of the window frame, the glass then fits in and then the beading can be refitted. Once each window is fitted run an extra bead of silicone along the bottom edge to stop any water penetration.
Now that everything is done we would check over the shed to make sure all ok, its always worth double checking the door is aligned and lock working ok and if you have any opening windows give them a try.